Party in the back

I really enjoy my annual leotard sew for my daughter.  This year, we took our inspiration from this flow with elegance leotard.

Flow With Elegance Leotard PGB 14:

Here is our version.

Party in the back.

Plain in the front.

To make this, I started with her latest swimsuit pattern, based on Jalie 3134, which was modified to combine the front panels, and to lower the legline, as well as adjusted a little for her fit.  Further modifications for this leotard included
  • lowering the neckline
  • raising the back scoop, to cover the waistband of her tights
  • changing the angle where the front armhole meets the side seam
  • adding straps, as per the photograph below.  The straps are sewn as tubes.

There are some pull lines on the front neckline, so I probably need to adjust the front strap extensions a little, if I make this again

I used a matt nylon lycra.  She feels that this is too much like swimwear, but I don't know where I can buy the tactel lycras that are used in modern leotards.

The shorts are made from Jalie 3247.  I usually go up one size for Jalie leggings, but this time I went up 2 sizes, because this mystique lycra is very firm.  I think I actually should have gone up another couple of sizes. 


Dress with horizontal waist gathers

I am back on track with my craftsy course for this dress.  This is from the :Patternmaking + Design: creative darts and seamlines" course.  The class showed transferring the bust and waist darts to gathers in the waist dart.  I decided to do the same with the skirt hip darts, and I made the dress into a V-neck, both front and back.

I'm not sure that this is the most flattering design for me, or if maybe I need to fix up my pattern a little, but it seems all a bit droopy at the bottom of the bust, and it is a bit tight at the top of bust, which is why my facings are showing through.  The fabric is a lightweight sateen, which probably contributes to the show through.

The fabric is a much lighter colour than I normally wear.  It was an online buy, and I was drawn to the red in the print.  This is one of those cases where the closeup photo does not really show what the fabric looks like from a distance, as the overall effect is more pink than red.

So, the overall dress is okay, but I don't love either the design or the fabric.  Onto the next lesson...


My Quilt

I have been long overdue for a new quilt.  I still love my last one, made from dress fabric remnants, but some squares are so worn that the fabrics are getting shiny.

The quilt design is loosely based on Elizabeth Hartman's wonky crosses, though, looking back at the original tutorial, my crosses are a lot less wonky.

This new quilt top is made from quilting fabrics, with a cotton linen blend for the pale blue background fabric.  I made the top a few months ago, and then decided that the cotton linen that I bought for the backing was too heavy.  I was going to make a fancy back with the quilting cotton leftovers, but somehow, this project trickled down to the bottom of the pile.  I guess you know how that happens!

Last week I saw a grey and white spotted cotton sheet on sale in Target, and decided that finished was better than perfect.  In the spirit of finishing quickly, the quilting is just parallel lines.  Well, reasonably parallel lines, if there is such a thing as "reasonably parallel".

The overall look and feel of the quilt is peaceful and serene, which is what I was aiming for.



I have been off in my own sewing la-la land for so long that current fashions have not fed into my inspirations for quite a while.  I am not an island though, and I like staying up with fashions, even if I don't wear them, so in the holidays I picked up a US Instyle magazine and sat down to enjoy a peaceful hour flicking through the pages. Not for long though.  I was quite taken with the grommets turning up in clothing and immediately put the magazine down and headed for the fabric stash (I haven't got back to the magazine yet...now it is lost in the paper piles in my house).  Grommets used to just appear alongside leather, or in corsetry, but now they are turning up in all sorts of garments and fabrics.

Of course, it helped that I had just bought a lot of dies and hardware for my DK-98 snap press.  I had bought the grommet die and grommets with the intention of making bags, but with me, it always comes back to clothing in the end.

I bought dies for a few different snaps, grommets and rivets from dot-gas.  With the handling charges and the shipping charges and the lower Aussi dollar, they turned out to be quite expensive.  However, I have always been frustrated that my snap press was only good for one type of snap, so I don't regret my purchase.  We all know that sewing is not cheaper than RTW, don't we?  I'll just have to stick grommets and snaps on everything to bring the price per application down.

The sketch below was my starting idea, though you will see that I added more grommets, as well as adding splits to the front and back necklines. I also added a horizontal seam across the CF, so that I could line the entire upper section, rather than just use a facing, because my fabric was semi-sheer.  I interfaced the lining.

Front view.  I did resist the urge to tun this into a flared top, but now I'm wondering if it would look better with a bit of flare.

The print is a rather busy, but this side view shows some of the seaming detail.

 Grommets in the back.

The fabric is a linen viscose woven and appears to be still available from EmmaOneSock.


A little top with lace shoulder yokes

I must have thought I was living somebody else's life when I ordered this fabric.  I have very little black in my wardrobe, and the print is a little conservative for my lifestyle.  Never-the-less, it is a lovely little top, and a style that I have been wanting to draft for a while now.

The design is basically a shell top, with contrast shoulder yokes.  The bust darts have been rotated to CF neckline pleats.  The front waist darts have been ignored.  The back waist darts are sewn in.  The back shoulder darts are incorporated into the yoke shaping.

I went for 3 inches of ease this time around, and that feels comfortable.

The main fabric is a silk from EmmaOneSock.  The shoulders are a black lace (hard to tell from the photos), leftover from a long ago garment.