Hey June Santa Fe top

Likewise, I got a little carried away with the Hey June Santa Fe top.  Here are my first 4 versions.

View A

View B

View D

View E

I made a narrow chest adjustment on all but the grey top, which I sewed first.  

On the white and grey versions I didn't turn up a hem, but sewed a line of cover-stitching about an inch from the bottom as a finish, which I have seen on lightweight RTW tops.

My only issue with this pattern is that the armholes are too high for me, so I will need to lower them before my next burst of sewing Santa Fe tops.


Hey June Union St Tee

I fell down a rabbit hole with the Hey June Union St Tee.  If the PR wardrobe contest hadn't yanked me back out, I could still be down that hole, making tee after tee.  As it was, I made 4 in less than a fortnight.

My first one was a striped shirt with the scoop neckline.  I didn't realise that the scoop neckline on this pattern was lower than the scoop on the original pattern release.  This scoop is lower than I would have liked.  Easy enough to change though.  I used my coverstitch machine to put a binding on the neck, rather than use the neck band piece from the pattern.  I didn't make any alterations to this pattern, and the neckline gaped on me, so I had to take the binding off and reapply it by hand, shortening it a little to draw in the neckline.  This striped cotton fabric is probably a bit heavy weight for the shirt and would have been better used for a long sleeved tee.

My second tee was the same size (M) with the V-neck.  I used the binding piece from the pattern, and found it a bit short.  I have contemplated taking it off and sewing a new neckband on, but haven't got around to it yet.  It seems the shirt is forever in the wash, so maybe I will never get to it.  The fabric is a gorgeous colour, a purply sort of blue in a rayon, from EmmaOneSock.  My attempt at a narrow chest adjustment wasn't the best approach, and changes the hang of the front of the shirt.

For my third tee, I went for a slouchier look and tried a size up from my measurement, which made it an L.  This time I added about 2 inches to the neck band.  I tried a different narrow chest adjustment and was happy with the results.

For the 4th version, I was aiming for a vintage vibe with this slubby cotton knit.  The knit does not have great recovery.  I started with the L, used the narrow chest adjustment from the previous tee, shortened the sleeves and widened the neck band.  I added length to the neckband and basted it in place to see if the added length was right.  It took me several attempts to get the right length in this fabric.

I can see many more of these tees in my future, as I love the boxy shape and the slouchier look.


Burdastyle faux wrap skirt

I have been sewing up a storm for my entry to the PR wardrobe contest.  Not sure if I will get everything blogged individually, but here is the Burdastyle skirt I made.

The pattern is Burdastyle 07-2017-113.  The fabric is a heavy white denim, that I found in my cupboard and am unsure of the origins.  The hem bands are a grey linen, interfaced to match the weight of the denim.

The back of the skirt is plain.

My fabric was heavier than the fabrics listed for the pattern, so I swapped the invisible zip for a lapped zipper and button closure.

I stuck a sneaky pocket in between the front layers.  It it sort of like the coin pocket on men's trousers, only a bit bigger.

I haven't been wearing skirts much lately, but it is good to mix things up now and then.

Floral Bomber

Once again, I'm late to jump on board a trend, but never mind.  Here is my take on the floral bomber.

The pattern is Simplicity 8418, which I picked up for a couple of dollars in a Spotlight sale.  I was choosing between this pattern, Burda 6478 (which I got at the same sale) and the Jalie Charlie Bomber. This one and the Burda had raglan sleeves, which I wanted. When I compared the Simplicity and the Burda pattern, this one was more fitted than the Burda. I liked the pockets on the Jalie, but shipping of Jalie patterns is so expensive that I usually buy a bundle all at once and I wasn't ready to order a whole heap of Jalies just at the moment.

I have hardly ever sewn a Simplicity pattern. My bust measurement put me at a sz 14. Sz 12 was the largest in my pattern envelope, so I started with that.  I should have made a muslin, but being a simple design, I thought I would get away without one. There were lots of changes on the run.
- I didn't line the jacket
- Square shoulder adjustment
- Prominent shoulder joint adjustment
- I changed the pockets to welt pockets. I used the Burda pocket piece and Jalie instructions to draft my own pattern piece. I used 1 cm welts, but I wish I had chosen 2 cm welts.
- I shortened the jacket by 2 cm. I would have liked it shorter, but the pockets were already in place, which was a bit limiting.
- I shortened the sleeves by 2 cm.
- My rib bands were a little narrower due to fabric shortage. I made the rib bands a little longer than the pattern because I thought my rib was not overly stretchy.
- I took the sleeve seam in by 2.5 cm (total width reduction of 5 cm), all the way up to the under arm, which raised the underarm by 2.5 cm, tapering back down to 0 as I sewed from underarm to waist.

Attaching all that ribbing was a very familiar process...I must have made a lot of sweatshirts as a child in the 80's...the Knitwit era!

It was pretty hot putting this jacket on for photos today, but it will be snuggly if the weather ever cools down.


Upcycle with bling

I found that I wasn't wearing the jeans I made back in this post of 2016.  The leg shape seemed a bit heavy for the fabric, and whilst I could have unpicked all that top-stitching and re-shaped the leg, I also whacked in a great big dart under the bum to address a fit issue.  There are lots of ways to upcycle jeans, but the easiest has to be cut-offs.  I had some scrap heat fix glitter left over from a crafty project, and inspired by the Sass-and-Bide-Feels-Like-Yes shorts, I decided that glittery dots could only make these cut-offs better.

You can see that the dart under the bum is still there, but I am not bothered by it so much now there is the distraction of the glittery dots.

The dots are more sparkly in real life than these photos.  The heat fix glitter is supposed to iron into place, and whilst I have had success ironing it to lycra, I just could not get it to stay stuck onto this denim.  In the end, I appliqued the dots in place, which meant I have lost some of the functionality of that back pocket.

There's nothing like a bit of sparkle to brighten up your day!